Q&A | Author Eric Freeze Talks Expatriate Life and Living Better with Less in the South of France

The sweeping coastline of Nice, France, where the Freeze family has made their (second) home, documented in Freeze’s memoir French Dive.

Vieux Nice, the heart of the city, nestled within the postcard-perfect French Riviera.

If you’ve ever considered leaving it all behind and starting a new life in France—as I have many times this year!—you’ve come to the right place. In 2014, author and college professor Eric Freeze and his wife, Rixa, decided to make a change. Having lived comfortably with their four young children (then all under the age of seven) in a small town in Indiana, they decided to buy a fixer-upper apartment in Nice, France—the idyllic medieval French village-within-a-city along the Côte d’Azur—and split their time between both countries (and cultures).

Prompting this decision was Freeze’s determination to provide his children with a unique Francophone experience. A bilingual Canadian native himself, he had decided to undergo an interesting linguistic experiment: to only speak French at home to his American children, in the hopes of giving them a second language. The ambitious feat paid off, as les enfants became comfortable conversing with him in French, and Freeze searched for a more immersive experience. Forgoing pricy private French integration schools in the United States, a teaching sabbatical provided the timing for the Freeze family to make the semi-permanent move to France.

Enrolling the children in French schools required proof of residence, which became the catalyst for purchasing their apartment in Vieux Nice, the medieval village in the heart of the city. The backdrop of a diverse, multicultural environment provided the opportunity to live like locals, rather than holiday tourists isolated in a single family vacation home outside of the city. Walking instead driving, taking on DIY home renovations—spoiler alert: the family was featured on HGTV’s popular franchise House Hunters International—and shopping at the local markets allowed the family to experience cultural immersion on a daily basis, and integrate within the fabric of the French community.

Sleeping six people comfortably in a former student rental apartment introduced them to the French décroissant philosophy—spend less, live better. Furnishing their apartment with flea market antiques, sending their kids to school in pre-worn clothing, and catching their own dinner by learning to spearfish in the Mediterranean, are just a few of the meaningful lifestyle changes Freeze documents in his memoir (and March 2021 book club selection) French Dive.

Read on to learn more about Freeze’s insights on bi-continental living, and the family’s adventures in the South of France, in a delightful conversation with The Chic American, below.

Click here to order French Dive.

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Q&A

TCA: How does the French [décroissant] approach to minimalism differ from the American approach? Has anything changed since writing the book?

EF: I’m a little hesitant to draw too many distinctions between the French décroissant movement and American minimalism. They both emphasize living in an intentional, less consumerist way. The difference I think—and I could totally be wrong here—is in degree. While the French certainly fell victim to late-stage capitalism and overconsumption like the rest of the western world, it’s still far less conspicuous than in the US. French households consume fifty percent of what US households do. Most people live in smaller spaces and don’t have multiple cars. They have less stuff because the system doesn’t support having as much stuff. Minimalists in the US are also a lot more evangelical in their approach. Take control of your life! They tell us, all the while ironically recommending the products that will help us live a more minimalist lifestyle (like maybe I’m doing here? Sorry!). The voices are fewer but louder in the US. But I think we need both those louder voices and grassroots cultural movements for people to start changing in this world of limited resources.

TCA: What was the hardest thing/routine to leave behind and how have you filled that void?

EF: I don’t really miss anything. The only adjustment for me was I had a pickup soccer group in the states that played three times a week. I’ve had a hard time replicating that in Nice even though it’s a soccer-crazed city. But I have other sporting activities like spearfishing that are pretty hard to do in land-locked Indiana.

TCA: What do you love most about living in France and what do you miss most about living in the US?

EF: I don’t really miss anything in the US. My kids miss peanut butter. My spouse really likes to garden and that’s been hard for her to give up since we live in an apartment in a city center. As a Canadian, I’ve never entirely felt like I belonged in the US. France, with its more robust social net and cultural similarities is much more to my liking. I love the food, the pace of life, the weather, the recreational activities, the opportunities for my kids. I love that I can live a block away from the sea, my kids’ schools, world-class cultural amenities like the opera and the symphony. The daily food market, the restaurants, and the outdoor space is all on my doorstep. I love that we can go to the public library and it’s adjacent to the Modern Art museum. My favorite museum is the Palais Lascaris that houses a collection of medieval musical instruments. It’s across the street from us. These amenities aren’t due to living in France so much as living in the community of Old Nice specifically. Where we live in the US is beautiful but it’s small town living in a house with a yard.

 
TCA: How has living in France changed your global perspective?

EF: Nice is a port city that has always accommodated people from other cultures. It’s one of the cradles of civilization. Living in a place that has always been in flux, always a part of something larger than itself, shows many of the complexities of living in a world of limited resources with people from other countries, religions or ethnicities. The world’s disparities are also on display. You can walk past the port filled with luxury yachts to the homeless encampment on the lighthouse jetty. It’s hard not to see these things. 

TCA: What are your future plans/goals? Any new material we should look out for?

EF: Right now I’m working on a sequel to French Dive, a memoir that picks up where the last one left off: with a family trying to work out living half the year in France and half in the US. This one is a tougher book in a lot of ways as it also examines many of the difficulties in France the past several years, including the 2016 Bastille day terror attacks in Nice that left 87 dead. I also look in more depth at issues of discrimination and privilege and the effect of the current pandemic in Nice. But I hope to end it on an optimistic note, to show what learning to live with others can do for our world. I’m tentatively calling it Pioneers of France.

Book Club: 5 French Reads for May 2021

Life is beginning to return to the streets of Paris, en fin.

It’s safe to say that the Covid crisis cast an eerie pall over many a major metropolis over the past year, turning tourist targets and pedestrian-heavy piazzas, from Times Square to Piccadilly Circus, into veritable ghost towns unlike anything ever seen before in this lifetime. One of the most disturbing sights, and a blow to francophiles everywhere, were the images of empty and abandoned cafés that once populated Parisian neighborhoods and have come to define the French lifestyle—at least through the American lens. After a dismal year of tight lockdowns, city-wide curfews, and distance limiting—at the height of the shutdown, residents weren’t allowed to travel beyond one kilometer of their homes without permission—the promise of a return to (semi) normal Parisian life is finally becoming a reality. Cafes are slowly beginning to reopen, and to celebrate, this month’s book club is dedicated to the history, art, and inspiration of Parisian Café Culture.

Scroll down to browse this month’s selections and start dreaming of people-watching over a warm croissant and a cafe au lait.

A Table in Paris (NEW RELEASE)
By John Donohue
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”Paris is a city like no other, beloved by travelers the world over for its incomparable architecture, atmosphere, arts, and, of course, food. The restaurants of Paris are rich with history, culture, and flavor. Whether you're a frequent visitor to the City of Light with memories of your favorite meals or an armchair traveler dreaming of the cuisine you could discover there, A Table in Paris will take you on a delicious visual journey through the arrondissements that you'll never forget. In his signature loose and evocative style, artist John Donohue has rendered an incredible sampling of the iconic institutions, hidden gems, and everything in between that make the Paris dining scene one of a kind.”

Hemingway’s Paris
By Robert Wheeler
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”In gorgeous black-and-white images, Hemingway’s Paris depicts a story of remarkable passion—for a city, a woman, and a time. No other city in any of his travels was as significant, professionally or emotionally, as Paris. And it remains there, all of the complexity, beauty, and intrigue that Hemingway describes in the pages of so much of his work. It is all still there for the reader and traveler to experience—the history, the streets, and the city.”

The Historic Restaurants of Paris
By Ellen Williams
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”The vanished world of nineteenth-century Paris still awaits behind the doors of select restaurants and gourmet shops that have delighted customers for more than a hundred years. Crossing these thresholds, the discriminating diner and shopper can step into a gilded Belle Epoque setting favored by Manet and Degas, a vintage confectioner that supplied bonbons to Monet, or a shaded café terrace frequented by Zola. From tiny pâtisseries, cozy bistros, and rustic wine bars barely known outside the quarter to bustling brasseries, elegant tea salons, and world-famous cafés, The Historic Restaurants of Paris is an indispensible guide to classic cuisine served in settings of startling beauty. Charming anecdotes relating to a restaurant’s history and celebrated former patrons, among them Proust, Balzac, George Sand, and the Impressionists.”

Cafe French
By L. John Harris
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”The iconic, strolling Paris flâneur of the 19th century often expressed his ironic observations of the spectacular city he loved in paint, prose and poetry. Celebrated artist-flâneurs like Honoré de Balzac, Charles Baudelaire and their 20th-century successors—from André Breton’s surrealists to Jean-Paul Sartre’s existentialists—have served up brilliant, if sometimes dark, images of the City of Light. Now, following in their august footsteps, Berkeley writer and artist L. John Harris channels the historic flâneur with his witty café French “lessons” and whimsical illustrations taken from his Paris café journals. While Café French proposes to guide fellow Francophiles on a journey into the cultural and linguistic codes and canons of Paris café culture, the author—with a dash of Dada—chronicles his own discoveries: the cafés he inhabits, the language he struggles to learn, the food he eats and the dreams he pursues in the city he loves.”

Paris Cafe: The Select Crowd
By Noel Riley Fitch
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”Acclaimed author Noël Riley Fitch, abetted by noted artist Rick Tulka, serves the dish on Select, the famous Montparnasse café that for nearly nine decades has been so vital to Paris and its intellectual denizens: from Hemingway, Beauvoir, Picasso, James Baldwin, and George Plimpton to the writers and artists who continue to work quietly there in the back room or heatedly debate every topic imaginable into the night. The artists have their work on the walls; the novelists include the café setting in their fiction. The quiet and drama of the Sélect world illustrates the centrality of cafés — particularly this one — to Parisian social, cultural, and intellectual life. Blending pithy profiles and witty drawings of clientele and staff, the book is organized around a history of the café, its daily and seasonal rhythms, particular colorful patrons, and even its typical café/brasserie food.”