French Restaurant

L'Etoile | The History of the Michelin Star Rating

Le Taillevent, one of the rare esteemed Parisian dining destinations to be honored with a 3 Star Michelin rating, as featured in the upcoming film, A Chef’s Journey.

Le Taillevent, one of the rare esteemed Parisian dining destinations to be honored with a 3 Star Michelin rating, as featured in the upcoming film, A Chef’s Journey.

If you read yesterday’s post about the new documentary, A Chef’s Journey—premiering in your living room this Friday—then surely you’re eagerly anticipating this cinematic trip to France and the chance to peek inside the world of not one, but three Michelin 3-Star rated French restaurants.

But while we’re waiting, what exactly does it mean to be a 3-Star rated restaurant? And who exactly is Michelin? Is it like the Zagat guide? Isn’t a five star rating the highest honor? I’m glad you (sort of) asked.

The History of the Michelin Star Rating

Like the Yelp review of its day, the Michelin tire company published its first Michelin Guide in France in 1900, as a resource for motorists to take along on road trips, highlighting the best amenities—including mechanics and, yes, restaurants—along the way.

In 1926, the first etoile (star) was introduced as a method to distinguish the must-see spots, and in 1933, the second and third stars were added as a full rating system. Unlike hotels, which all rank somewhere between one and five stars—usually through independent organizations like AAA, since there is no official authority—only very special restaurants even make the Michelin rank.

To clarify, while we might typically think of 1 star as a low rating, to have one Michelin star is a great honor in itself, while two and three stars are reserved for the most elite restaurants around the world.

Updated annually, the list of dining locations are announced each year in the guide, with a rating of:

  • 1 star, which classifies “A very good restaurant.”

  • 2 stars, which distinguishes “Excellent cooking that is worth a detour.”

  • 3 stars, the highest honor, reserved for “Exceptional cuisine that is worth a special journey.”

While the guide has adapted its system over the years to a more inclusive classification system that includes casual dining and eateries of all kinds that aren’t quite star material, the Michelin stars continue to be a rare achievement, and highly coveted.

According to the 2019 edition, there are currently only 137 Michelin 3-star rated restaurants around the world—for context, there are 197 countries on earth, meaning that most countries don’t have any at all. France typically leads the way as the country with the highest number—which makes sense since the French invented the system, and their dedication to traditional cuisine is unparalleled, really—currently with a whopping 29.

For added context, France is roughly the size of Texas, so that’s a lot of stars per capita, as compared to the US which currently has 14 in total—7 of which are in California, although sadly not in Los Angeles.

Other European cuisine capitals like Italy and Spain have 11; the UK has 5; China, Singapore, and the Netherlands have 2; while Austria, Belgium, Denmark, Sweden, and Taiwan have only one each.

However, it should be noted that Los Angeles currently hosts four Michelin 2-star rated dining destinations, including:

And not for nothing, LA is also home to 16 Michelin 1-star rated spots, while Orange County has two, and there’s also one in San Diego.

See which local locales made the cut here, and check this handy barometer to track which Michelin rated restaurants have managed to survive in the wake of Covid closures.

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NYC Guide | Best French Dining and Takeout

C’est moi, raising une coupe at Petite Boucherie in the West Village.

C’est moi, raising une coupe at Petite Boucherie in the West Village.

Now that outdoor dining in Los Angeles has been shut down for the second time this year, I couldn’t help but reminisce all the way back to the post-lockdown (yet now also pre-lockdown) peak fall days of October, when I took a very quick (and cautious) trip to New York City just to feel an ounce of normalcy again.

While it was certainly unnerving to see the lights of Broadway dimmed, and a bummer to be unable to partake in the colorful bar scene for an old-school night on the town, I was pleasantly surprised to find that La Grande Pomme (the Big Apple) is actually quite peaceful without throngs of tourists and out-of-towners. That riding a nearly empty and virtually spotless (and no longer malodorous) subway is almost a luxurious experience that I never thought I’d witness in this lifetime, and that the restaurant scene, which is the lifeblood of the city, was just as vibrant as ever.

The government-mandated al fresco order had music and bustle spilling into the streets and sidewalks, giving the city a same-but-different, spirited vibe that was almost—I said almost—reminiscent of Parisian café culture.

And speaking of Paris, there is an abundance of French bistros and brasseries scattered across Manhattan. Even if it isn’t possible to enjoy the full indoor dining experience—mosaic floors and Edith Piaf background tunes and all—at the time you’re reading this, ordering takeout is the perfect way to keep our friends and their businesses afloat, while enjoying fantastic French fare chez vous.

Best French Dining and Takeout in NYC

Best French Dining and Takeout in NYC

1. PETITE BOUCHERIE
14 Christopher St, New York, NY 10014
(646) 756-4145

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Nestled cozily in the West Village, on the iconic corner of Gay St. and Christopher, Petite Boucherie is the petite soeur (little sister) of its namesake, the original Boucherie. Expect all of the traditional favorites. Think escargot and a la carte charcuterie boards to start, then fill up on steak frites or share the Chateaubriand pour deux, and save room for a teacup full of authentic mousse au chocolat—which I’m here to tell you is surprisingly difficult to find in the United States!

Best French Dining and Takeout in NYC

BOUCHERIE
99 7th Ave S, New York, NY 10014
(212) 837-1616

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The original West Village destination, Boucherie takes its decorative cues and its ambiance from the heart of the elegant Belle Epoque era. Picture traditional white marble bistro tables, burgundy booths, and framed replicas of vintage posters from the Toulouse Lautrec, Moulin Rouge can-can era. But lest you be intimidated by the appearance of grandeur and formality, I assure you that the experience is pure warmth and comfort. Additional locations include Union Square and La Grande Boucherie on West 53rd, all boasting the same menu of cuisine traditionelle.

Best French Dining and Takeout in NYC

2. LITTLE PRINCE
199 Prince St, New York, NY 10012
(212) 335-0566

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Cleverly named to incorporate its Prince Street location and the childhood literary classic, The Little Prince (Le Petit Prince), the floral facade of this reinvented French favorite is about as magnifique as it gets, this side of the Seine. Known as much for its cocktail boisson homages to the likes of American icons like Tina Turner, Ru Paul, Cyndi Lauper (and even Betty White) as it is for its French comfort foods like Ratatouille, Duck á l’Orange, and Black Truffle Steak Haché (a fancy word for hamburger), this SoHo “Bistro non Classique” has something for everyone.

Best French Dining and Takeout in NYC

3. PASTIS
52 Gansevoort St, New York, NY 10014
212-929-4844

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As soon as Carrie Bradshaw famously quipped to Samantha, “I’m not going to lose my table at Pastis so you can cruise a Holy Man,” in season 4 of Sex and the City, it became the line that launched a thousand reservations. All walks of life, from celebrities to eager tourists, flocked to the then up-and-coming Meatpacking district to see what the fuss was about. Note: just like when Sam spotted the first neighborhood Pottery Barn on the block, the mammoth Restoration Hardware that now sits across the street officially confirms the neighborhood’s full transition from dockside warehouse territory into full gentrification.

Outfitted in the familiar design tenets of a classic bistro (subway tile, oxidized mirrors, and hand-written specials on chalkboard signs), come for the brunch-time Croque Monsieur and stay for the Chicken Paillard and Boeuf Bourguignon—and the quick two minute walk to the Whitney.

Best French Dining and Takeout in NYC

4. MARSEILLE
630 9th Ave, New York, NY 10036
(212) 333-2323

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Just around the corner from the bright lights of Times Square, lies a little French oasis amid the hustle and bustle of Hell’s Kitchen. One day soon, when our musical friends return to the Broadway stage, it will once again be the place to quell a post-theater craving for the Marseillaise seaside fare of oysters and moules frites, or a nightcap toast with a coupe de Champagne. For now, enjoy the brasserie life with classic hits like creamy Bouillabaisse, pâté a la maison or Duck leg confit to-go—or in the warmth of a cozy corner booth if you can.

Best French Dining and Takeout in NYC

5. CAFÉ d’ALSACE
1695 2nd Ave, New York, NY 10128
(212) 722-5133

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Whether you’re having a nostalgic yen for the bustling days of long, sidewalk Sunday brunches and brioche French toast, or just want to go to town on a bloody steak tartare, this cozy Alsatian spot, with its classically Germanic influences of sausage and sauerkraut, proves that good French eating isn’t just for the West Side. An afternoon spent wandering through midtown, window shopping your way through Saks, and meandering over to this Upper East neighborhood is the perfect justification for picking up a warm bowl of Choucroute Garnie and chocolate-drizzled profiteroles for the road.

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