Celebrate La Chandeleur: The French Holiday Devoted to Crêpes

We all know that the crêpe—French cousin to the American pancake—is a national delicacy and signature dish in France, but did you know that there is, in fact, an entire holiday dedicated to the oh-so delicious sweet and savory foldable griddle cakes we love so much?

Today marks the annual French holiday known as la Chandeleur (also known as “Candlemas” in English) which falls exactly 40 days after Christmas—and yes, it’s the perfect excuse to break out the Nutella and sugar.

CLICK HERE to read a fantastic article about the traditions, superstitions, and historical evolution of La Chandeleur, posted by Coucou French Classes—one of our favorite French language programs in the US, with online courses and in-person lessons at brick and mortar locations in New York and Los Angeles.

See an excerpt below:

According to Sophia Millman’s piece for Coucou:

“In the 5th century, Pope Gelasius I decided to put an end to the ancient Roman festival Lupercalia that Christians celebrated. He encouraged them instead to celebrate “the Feast of the Purification of the Blessed Virgin Mary,” which would take place 40 days after Christmas, on February 2nd. While the Romans had carried torches into their fields to make offerings to their god of fertility, Gelasius instructed Christians to carry candles. It was said that, at the end of the Candlemas ceremonies–called la Chandeleur or la Fête de la Lumière–believers had to leave the church with a lit candle. If its flame went out, they risked attracting the evil eye…

When Christians returned to Rome after a pilgrimage, Pope Gelasius I said that they should eat crêpes made with surplus flour from the prior year. Round like the sun, the crêpes were supposed to represent light and wealth in the new year. According to tradition, if it rained on la Chandeleur, forty more days of rain would follow the holiday. 

Today, many French people still believe in some of the superstitions surrounding la Chandeleur. For instance, on February 2nd, you’re supposed to flip your crêpe in the pan while holding a gold coin in your left hand to ensure prosperity. But don’t try this at home, especially if you’re left handed! You’re also supposed to eat your crêpes in the evening and put the first crêpe you make in a cupboard drawer or on top of your closet to bring good luck. (Not sure how long you should leave it there? Supposedly, it will never go spoiled, but we’ll let you be the judge)…

If you’ve ever been to Brittany, you know that les Bretons are famous for their cider and their crêpes. According to legend, la crêpe bretonne was invented when a farmer’s wife spilled some buckwheat porridge onto a very hot, flat stone lying in her fireplace. Today, la crêpe bretonne can be made with wheat flour and served as a sweet dessert (une crêpe sucrée). If you make it with buckwheat flour (known as “sarrasin”), you’re supposed to call it une galette. Une complète is a galette topped with Gruyère, ham and a sunny-side-up egg. Traditionally, in Brittany, crêpe batter is cooked in a specific device called un billig or galetiere. You spread it with a small spatula called un rozell or une raclette, as the rest of France calls it. Check out this French video about a Breton chef making his famous crêpes…

Fun fact: According to this French article, 76 percent of French people manage to successfully flip their crêpes in the air. The most agile crêpe flippers are 50-64 years old!”

L'Etoile | The History of the Michelin Star Rating

Le Taillevent, one of the rare esteemed Parisian dining destinations to be honored with a 3 Star Michelin rating, as featured in the upcoming film, A Chef’s Journey.

If you read yesterday’s post about the new documentary, A Chef’s Journey—premiering in your living room this Friday—then surely you’re eagerly anticipating this cinematic trip to France and the chance to peek inside the world of not one, but three Michelin 3-Star rated French restaurants.

But while we’re waiting, what exactly does it mean to be a 3-Star rated restaurant? And who exactly is Michelin? Is it like the Zagat guide? Isn’t a five star rating the highest honor? I’m glad you (sort of) asked.

The History of the Michelin Star Rating

Like the Yelp review of its day, the Michelin tire company published its first Michelin Guide in France in 1900, as a resource for motorists to take along on road trips, highlighting the best amenities—including mechanics and, yes, restaurants—along the way.

In 1926, the first etoile (star) was introduced as a method to distinguish the must-see spots, and in 1933, the second and third stars were added as a full rating system. Unlike hotels, which all rank somewhere between one and five stars—usually through independent organizations like AAA, since there is no official authority—only very special restaurants even make the Michelin rank.

To clarify, while we might typically think of 1 star as a low rating, to have one Michelin star is a great honor in itself, while two and three stars are reserved for the most elite restaurants around the world.

Updated annually, the list of dining locations are announced each year in the guide, with a rating of:

• 1 star, which classifies “A very good restaurant.”

• 2 stars, which distinguishes “Excellent cooking that is worth a detour.”

• 3 stars, the highest honor, reserved for “Exceptional cuisine that is worth a special journey.”

While the guide has adapted its system over the years to a more inclusive classification system that includes casual dining and eateries of all kinds that aren’t quite star material, the Michelin stars continue to be a rare achievement, and highly coveted.

According to the 2019 edition, there are currently only 137 Michelin 3-star rated restaurants around the world—for context, there are 197 countries on earth, meaning that most countries don’t have any at all. France typically leads the way as the country with the highest number—which makes sense since the French invented the system, and their dedication to traditional cuisine is unparalleled, really—currently with a whopping 29.

For added context, France is roughly the size of Texas, so that’s a lot of stars per capita, as compared to the US which currently has 14 in total—7 of which are in California, although sadly not in Los Angeles.

Other European cuisine capitals like Italy and Spain have 11; the UK has 5; China, Singapore, and the Netherlands have 2; while Austria, Belgium, Denmark, Sweden, and Taiwan have only one each.

However, it should be noted that Los Angeles currently hosts four Michelin 2-star rated dining destinations, including:

• n/naka in Culver City

• Vespertine, also in Culver City

• Providence in Hollywood

• Sushi Ginza Onodera in West Hollywood

And not for nothing, LA is also home to 16 Michelin 1-star rated spots, while Orange County has two, and there’s also one in San Diego.

See which local locales made the cut here, and check this handy barometer to track which Michelin rated restaurants have managed to survive in the wake of Covid closures.

Le Dîner + Le Cinéma | A French Twist on Dinner & and a Movie

A snapshot from the new documentary film, A Chef’s Voyage, premiering virtually this Friday, Sept 18.

Fun fact: My own maman is a proud alumna of Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, where she graduated #1 in her class and went on to work in a coveted apprenticeship for the French Ministry.

If you’ve ever wondered what goes on—Ratatouille style—behind the scenes of a celebrated, Michelin-rated traditional French restaurant, this weekend you can take an up-close-and-personal glimpse inside the authentic French kitchen experience, and experience a full tasting menu at the same time—all without leaving la maison.

This Friday marks the (virtual) premiere of the highly anticipated documentary, A Chef’s Voyage, which chronicles American Chef David Kinch (of the Bay Area fine dining locale, Manresa) as his team travels to France to work alongside three iconic French chefs in their 3-Star Michelin rated kitchens in Paris, Provence, and Marseille respectively.

For context, three stars is the highest Michelin rating, and there are currently 29 restaurants with this honor in all of France, far more than most countries which only have a few—The US has 14; Italy and Spain have 11; the UK has five; China, Switzerland and the Netherlands have two; while Sweden, Belgium and Taiwan only have one.

To supplement the cinematic experience for those of us who are currently land-locked, Chef Josiah Citrin of the beloved Santa Monica French eatery Citrin + Mélisse (which re-branded last year when the original Mélisse transitioned and divided into a more casual dining experience with a separate tasting menu) has created a five course, pre-fixe culinary collaboration that you can pre-order here and pick up this weekend (Sept 17-20) so that you can feel like you’re along for the ride, and vicariously taste your way through France.

For $75, you can eat your way through the entire menu (see below) and watch the Rémi Anfosso-directed film with a complimentary ticket and link for viewing at home—this weekend only.

To mark the 15th anniversary of Manresa, Kinch decides to close shop for a month so he and his staff can embark on their France voyage. Planning the trip takes months; to represent the refined Californian cuisine of Manresa, the team must bring their own seasonings, sauces that take days to make, and lots of abalone. But the logistics are tricky: how to sneak the food on flights; unfamiliar host kitchens; a language barrier and more.

A Chef's Voyage takes us behind the scenes as the Manresa crew attempts to stage nine major meals over 10 days in the world's most cinematic venues, alongside culinary superstars, with the world watching (and tasting) - all to celebrate 15 years of Manresa excellence by doing what Chef Kinch and his team do best: creating meals and experiences worthy of those three stars.

Preview the film trailer here, and pre-order your French feast here.

Images courtesy of Wagstaff Marketing.

Le Pique-Nique | Tips for a Birthday Beach Soirée

Celebrating mon anniversaire with a chique pique-nique.

2020 might well go down in the zodiac records under its proper name: the Year of the Picnic.

While this quaint custom of al fresco eating became an unexpected fad this year among Americans—made especially hot in the wake of government mandates that forced us to get creative and repurpose most daily activities with an added outdoor element—it’s been refined and perfected by French romantics over the course of centuries.

In fact our word “picnic” is literally borrowed from the French language. It’s an Americanized pronunciation of the original French word “pique-nique”—which dates all the way back to 1649 with its first print mention in a French burlesque satire, featuring a protagonist with the rhyming name. It officially graced the French dictionnaire in 1694, as a fashionable or extravagant dinner in which everyone contributes a dish, like a pot luck. After the French revolution, the pique-nique made its way to London, as French citizens fled and migrated throughout Europe, eventually giving birth to a society of 200 or so erudite British francophiles known as the Pic-Nic society. Read more about the history of picnics here.

But back to present day, 2020. Thanks to social media—looking at you, Pinterest—gone are the days of the traditional Americana image of a modest wicker basket on a red checkered blanket. While small and impromptu picnics—which can qualify as a bottle of wine and two glasses with a few hunks of bread and cheese for public decency—have their place, more elaborate affairs have taken hold of the public consciousness, made popular by a new kind of Pic-Nic society—more popularly known as social influencers.

Read on to see my conseilles (advice) for keeping your seaside soirée small and—as always—trés chic.

Tips for a Birthday Beach Soirée

Prepare

I’ll admit I’m not the best when it comes to planning—it’s my spontaneous Leo nature—but making a list of everything you need to bring from home, and a separate list of things to buy, makes everything much simpler. This includes food, tableware, seating, decor, lighting, and cleanup supplies. Organize the event just as if it were a normal dinner party at your home, and then pack it all up.

Shop

Cooking and preparing food is a personal choice, but it requires a lot more work. I personally suggest sticking to appetizers and finger foods like fruit and charcuterie that can be taken directly from the store to the site.

Getting There

Be prepared to do some heavy lifting. If you decide to drive to your location, be sure to park nearby—even if that means springing for paid parking. Hey, you’ve come this far—because you’ll have a lot to carry. Scope out a location that’s a safe distance from others.

Setting the Scene

Don’t be afraid to bring the comforts of home with you. Decor can be as simple as some cozy pillows and throw blankets for warmth, or as elaborate as you want to make it, maybe with lanterns, plants or faux books if you’re feeling particularly extra. For a classic, monochromatic look, keep everything in the same color scheme, or for a more bohemian vibe, bring mismatching pillows, a colorful tapestry, and whimsical plates and silverware.

• Start by creating a perimeter for your seating area—a bed sheet or a comforter that you don’t mind washing afterward is perfectly fine.

• Add a table or elevated surface to present the food, and cover with a small tablecloth if your surface is plastic or unsightly.

• Scatter pillows around for comfortable seating

• Fresh flowers add to the outdoor element

• Include candles—and a lighter!—if you’ll be staying past sunset

• Use real china, silverware, and wine glasses like you would at home. Small salad plates save space, and stemless wine glasses prevent spills.

Clean up

Don’t forget to bring trash bags and plastic ziploc bags for dirty plates and used silverware. Don’t leave anything behind—it’s gauche (tacky, or bad form) and hazardous for wildlife.

Bonne fête!

Le Re-brand | Ladurée Goes Green

The pièce de résistance of Ladurée is its traditional St. Honoré dessert (front) and signature pastel china.

Did you know that our beloved Ladurée has rebranded as a fully Vegan restaurant, with an entirely reimagined, plant-based menu? In participation with Vegan chef Matthew Kenney, both full-menu Los Angeles locations, including Beverly Hills and The Grove, have made the shift. (Note: A third kiosk location at The Americana at Brand in Glendale offers to-go beverages and pastries only)

While I absolutely respect and understand the need for dietary restrictions and fully support the informed personal decisions that come with choosing a Vegan lifestyle, as a fierce defender of the preservation of French culture, including its historical integrity and the deep-seated roots of French cuisine, I’m sorry to say that I’m not excited about eating a Croque Monsieur made with tofu instead of the traditional jambon and gruyère cheese.

Offering Vegan-friendly options or substitutions (some of which are already available in French locations, and will be rolled out to the nearly 80 worldwide destinations) is a wonderful way to accommodate alternative dietary choices, but a fully meat-less menu overhaul here in the States feels extreme.

The 158 year old pâtisserie, known especially for its gold-standard macarons and dreamy desserts served upon the brand’s signature pastel green, pink, and blue rimmed dishware, is a world renowned French institution and an unofficial cultural landmark.

What do you think of these changes?

Ladurée Beverly Hills
311 N. Beverly Drive
Beverly Hills

Ladurée The Grove
189 The Grove Drive
Los Angeles

Q&A | Spotlight on: The Summer of Ludo & Gilles Pop Up

The Summer of Ludo & Gilles pop up dining experience comes to Beverly Hills.
Photo courtesy of the Montage Beverly Hills

The pop-up dining experience trend is really taking off in Los Angeles, and one of the absolute best of the year, hands down, is The Summer of Ludo and Gilles—although I may be biased, given my unabashed affection for the seaside cuisine of the French Riviera.

Nestled inside the charmingly European and picturesque courtyard of the Montage Beverly Hills, this epic culinary collaboration is the brainchild of renowned French restaurateurs Ludo Lefebvre—the producer of many an LA French eatery (including the beloved Trois Mecs in Hollywood) and known to many as America’s French Chef—and Gilles Epié, Culinary Director of the Montage Beverly Hills and known to many as the Original Rock Star Chef. Both have carved illustrious careers, leaving a combined trail of Michelin stars and television stints in their wake since their earlier days together at L’Orangerie in Paris.

In my exclusive Q&A with these two French visionaries below, find out what to expect from the most buzzed-about dining experience of the summer—and be sure to make a reservation before the three-month run ends in late September.

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TCA: What is your idea of the ideal French dining experience, and how is it incorporated into the Ludo & Gilles pop-up?

Chef Gilles: The French appreciate the art of dining, they have a passion for food and they take their time to fully enjoy it. Summer of Ludo & Gilles is like two friends together on vacation, cooking colorful food from the south of France using the freshest California produce. 

Chef Ludo: For me, when I think of the ideal French dining experience, it's with white tablecloths and beautiful china. When I think of my ideal dining experience in the South of France, it’s outside in the garden or near the beach. Summer of Ludo & Gilles incorporates the best of both worlds, with a beautiful setting provided by Montage Beverly Hills but with the simple, delicious food of the South of France.

TCA: Which elements of the South of France specifically served as inspiration for the menu?

Chef Gilles: The cuisine of the South of France features traditional dishes that are influenced by other countries around the Mediterranean Sea. The open-air farmers markets in Los Angeles provide delicious fruits, vegetables, olives, herbs and spices which complement the fish and meat dishes. We simply can’t go wrong with these amazing flavors!

Chef Ludo: The three most important elements of cuisine from the South of France are: fresh, local, farmer's market vegetables, fresh fish, and Extra Virgin Olive Oil. We wanted to incorporate all of the wonderful produce and ingredients we can find here in Southern California to utilize them in traditional dishes from the South of France.

TCA: What do you love most about French cuisine and how does it differ from American dining?

Chef Gilles: Dining in France is an experience and there is a wealth of traditional recipes that have been perfected over time. Whether you're at a French cafe, family-owned bistro or elegant restaurant, everyone has an opinion on food. In the U.S., diners enjoy recipes that are innovative and healthy. Americans definitely spend less time at the dining table, I think they should try to enjoy life a little bit more and I hope that our food entices them to do exactly that!

Chef Ludo: French cuisine has a long and rich history rooted in tradition. Every dish has a reason for why and when it is prepared, and there are so many different elements which go into the story behind it. I feel that true American cuisine is influenced by the mix of cultures that live here and it is much more difficult to define because of that.

TCA: In what way does this inspired menu put a unique spin on traditional French fare?

Chef Gilles: This is California and people are watching their figures. I don't cook with butter or heavy sauces. Clients can indulge their culinary passion while eating flavorful and healthy dishes using impeccable ingredients.

Chef Ludo: This menu is actually very traditional and we did not play with the dishes too much. Gilles and I really wanted to share the dishes that we remember from our childhood.

TCA: Which menu item has been most popular so far/ are you most excited to share?

Chef Gilles: The item that is the most popular is definitely the eggs caviar (a dish Ludo and I have been doing since our days at L’Orangerie). But personally the dish that I’m the most excited to share with our clientele is the pissaladière because it’s an authentic dish from Nice and probably something many people have never tried! And of course the Branzino, both Ludo and I created this recipe together, it basically represents everything we love!

Chef Ludo: The hors d’oeuvres cart which comes with 12 different salads and is accompanied by dipping breads has been really popular. Guests also really seem to be enjoying the fish soup as well! My favorite thing on the menu are the grilled prawns with garlic butter and fresh herbs. It's very simple, but so delicious! 

TCA: What do you think is missing from the LA restaurant scene that can be found at Ludo & Gilles?

Chef Gilles: It's the only restaurant in LA with two Michelin-starred chefs creating a truly French fine dining experience together, in a relaxed and beautiful space...We have both cooked for Presidents and movie stars, but we're thrilled to bring our cuisine to food lovers from every walk of life.

Chef Ludo: Our goal with Summer of Ludo & Gilles was to create a space for our guests to experience the South of France without ever leaving LA. I have so many fond memories of my own summers when I was a kid with my family in the South of France and wanted to share that with our guests.

TCA: What makes The Montage the perfect home for this dining experience?

Chef Gilles: Montage Beverly Hills is a world-class hotel with an international discerning clientele. They feel at home here dining on Mediterranean cuisine in a sophisticated atmosphere.

Chef Ludo: Montage Beverly Hills had all the resources I needed, a beautiful kitchen and a great team, to pop-up in their restaurant, plus their location and outdoor courtyard feels like you're in a little village in the South of France - the perfect escape from the hectic life of LA. It was the ideal setting to help transport the guests through both food and the space into the South of France.  

TCA: What do you most hope to accomplish during the run of this pop up?

Chef Gilles: We’d like to put the Summer of Ludo & Gilles on the culinary map! 

Chef Ludo: Most importantly, I want to share my love of this tradition of food with our guests so they can experience something different and new! I hope to give some inspiration to the guests about South of France cuisine so that they travel and create memories of their own.

The Summer of Ludo & Gilles
241 N. Canon Drive
Beverly Hills
310-860-7800

Renowned French chefs Ludo Lefebvre (Left), and Chef Gilles Epié (Right)