Le Dîner + Le Cinéma | A French Twist on Dinner & and a Movie

A snapshot from the new documentary film, A Chef’s Voyage, premiering virtually this Friday, Sept 18.

Fun fact: My own maman is a proud alumna of Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, where she graduated #1 in her class and went on to work in a coveted apprenticeship for the French Ministry.

If you’ve ever wondered what goes on—Ratatouille style—behind the scenes of a celebrated, Michelin-rated traditional French restaurant, this weekend you can take an up-close-and-personal glimpse inside the authentic French kitchen experience, and experience a full tasting menu at the same time—all without leaving la maison.

This Friday marks the (virtual) premiere of the highly anticipated documentary, A Chef’s Voyage, which chronicles American Chef David Kinch (of the Bay Area fine dining locale, Manresa) as his team travels to France to work alongside three iconic French chefs in their 3-Star Michelin rated kitchens in Paris, Provence, and Marseille respectively.

For context, three stars is the highest Michelin rating, and there are currently 29 restaurants with this honor in all of France, far more than most countries which only have a few—The US has 14; Italy and Spain have 11; the UK has five; China, Switzerland and the Netherlands have two; while Sweden, Belgium and Taiwan only have one.

To supplement the cinematic experience for those of us who are currently land-locked, Chef Josiah Citrin of the beloved Santa Monica French eatery Citrin + Mélisse (which re-branded last year when the original Mélisse transitioned and divided into a more casual dining experience with a separate tasting menu) has created a five course, pre-fixe culinary collaboration that you can pre-order here and pick up this weekend (Sept 17-20) so that you can feel like you’re along for the ride, and vicariously taste your way through France.

For $75, you can eat your way through the entire menu (see below) and watch the Rémi Anfosso-directed film with a complimentary ticket and link for viewing at home—this weekend only.

To mark the 15th anniversary of Manresa, Kinch decides to close shop for a month so he and his staff can embark on their France voyage. Planning the trip takes months; to represent the refined Californian cuisine of Manresa, the team must bring their own seasonings, sauces that take days to make, and lots of abalone. But the logistics are tricky: how to sneak the food on flights; unfamiliar host kitchens; a language barrier and more.

A Chef's Voyage takes us behind the scenes as the Manresa crew attempts to stage nine major meals over 10 days in the world's most cinematic venues, alongside culinary superstars, with the world watching (and tasting) - all to celebrate 15 years of Manresa excellence by doing what Chef Kinch and his team do best: creating meals and experiences worthy of those three stars.

Preview the film trailer here, and pre-order your French feast here.

Images courtesy of Wagstaff Marketing.

Belle Vie: Eating French Over Labor Day Weekend

If you’re staying in town for Labor Day—because even staying home counts as a Staycation in 2020—you can still get out and experience the delights of French bistro culture, courtesy of one of my absolute favorite west side spots, Belle Vie Food + Wine.

Just south of Brentwood proper, this little French oasis, with its subtle, modest exterior, tucked away and unassuming amid the American flashiness of the western end of Wilshire Blvd, is the perfect place to end a frustrating summer.

Having made lemonade out of lemons, like so many restaurateurs have been forced to do, owner and sommelier Vincent Samarco has designed a charming outdoor patio, frequented by loyal regulars and Francophiles alike. The ones who come for the soothing ambiance—to sip Provençal rosé to the tunes of mellow cafe background jazz—and stay for the menu, which puts a surprisingly American spin on traditional French cuisine.

Click here for a glimpse of the indoor experience I wrote about last year, which you can look forward to enjoying again once Covid restrictions have eased.

Le Pique-Nique | Tips for a Birthday Beach Soirée

Celebrating mon anniversaire with a chique pique-nique.

2020 might well go down in the zodiac records under its proper name: the Year of the Picnic.

While this quaint custom of al fresco eating became an unexpected fad this year among Americans—made especially hot in the wake of government mandates that forced us to get creative and repurpose most daily activities with an added outdoor element—it’s been refined and perfected by French romantics over the course of centuries.

In fact our word “picnic” is literally borrowed from the French language. It’s an Americanized pronunciation of the original French word “pique-nique”—which dates all the way back to 1649 with its first print mention in a French burlesque satire, featuring a protagonist with the rhyming name. It officially graced the French dictionnaire in 1694, as a fashionable or extravagant dinner in which everyone contributes a dish, like a pot luck. After the French revolution, the pique-nique made its way to London, as French citizens fled and migrated throughout Europe, eventually giving birth to a society of 200 or so erudite British francophiles known as the Pic-Nic society. Read more about the history of picnics here.

But back to present day, 2020. Thanks to social media—looking at you, Pinterest—gone are the days of the traditional Americana image of a modest wicker basket on a red checkered blanket. While small and impromptu picnics—which can qualify as a bottle of wine and two glasses with a few hunks of bread and cheese for public decency—have their place, more elaborate affairs have taken hold of the public consciousness, made popular by a new kind of Pic-Nic society—more popularly known as social influencers.

Read on to see my conseilles (advice) for keeping your seaside soirée small and—as always—trés chic.

Tips for a Birthday Beach Soirée

Prepare

I’ll admit I’m not the best when it comes to planning—it’s my spontaneous Leo nature—but making a list of everything you need to bring from home, and a separate list of things to buy, makes everything much simpler. This includes food, tableware, seating, decor, lighting, and cleanup supplies. Organize the event just as if it were a normal dinner party at your home, and then pack it all up.

Shop

Cooking and preparing food is a personal choice, but it requires a lot more work. I personally suggest sticking to appetizers and finger foods like fruit and charcuterie that can be taken directly from the store to the site.

Getting There

Be prepared to do some heavy lifting. If you decide to drive to your location, be sure to park nearby—even if that means springing for paid parking. Hey, you’ve come this far—because you’ll have a lot to carry. Scope out a location that’s a safe distance from others.

Setting the Scene

Don’t be afraid to bring the comforts of home with you. Decor can be as simple as some cozy pillows and throw blankets for warmth, or as elaborate as you want to make it, maybe with lanterns, plants or faux books if you’re feeling particularly extra. For a classic, monochromatic look, keep everything in the same color scheme, or for a more bohemian vibe, bring mismatching pillows, a colorful tapestry, and whimsical plates and silverware.

• Start by creating a perimeter for your seating area—a bed sheet or a comforter that you don’t mind washing afterward is perfectly fine.

• Add a table or elevated surface to present the food, and cover with a small tablecloth if your surface is plastic or unsightly.

• Scatter pillows around for comfortable seating

• Fresh flowers add to the outdoor element

• Include candles—and a lighter!—if you’ll be staying past sunset

• Use real china, silverware, and wine glasses like you would at home. Small salad plates save space, and stemless wine glasses prevent spills.

Clean up

Don’t forget to bring trash bags and plastic ziploc bags for dirty plates and used silverware. Don’t leave anything behind—it’s gauche (tacky, or bad form) and hazardous for wildlife.

Bonne fête!

Samedi Soirée | A rendezvous at The Classic Cat

Samedi Soiree

A rendezvous at The Classic Cat

A rendezvous at The Classic Cat

What began as a classic Covid Saturday night (read: boring) evolved into the very evening this old soul has been craving: celebrating the soft opening of The Classic Cat and chatting with with the masterminds behind what is surely to become one of the latest and greatest hot spots—no, not the pandemic kind of “hot spot,” the GOOD kind—in West Hollywood, if not LA in general.

Hidden behind an unassuming and deliberately unremarkable entrance on the gritty block shared with Sunset strip fixtures like The Viper Room, and Whiskey a Go-Go, what the Cat lacks in glamour on the outside, it makes up for in spades on the inside. Built for the in-crowd subset that’s a little too Ratpack for the typical in-crowd places, it’s slightly reminiscent of fellow WeHo nightspot Delilah—but if you’ve ever found yourself wishing for a similar vibe with a little more bottle service and a little less elbow-rubbing, you’ve come to the right place.

This new spot on the rock block, with its blend of florid Tropicana decor and lush Art Deco vibes—think classic velvet banquettes, palm fronds galore, and feather boa chandeliers—is a reimagining of the classic supper club of yore (aka the 1950s and 60s) once preferred by Hollywood royalty, where the brightest stars of Tinseltown collided with the Las Vegas jet-set and the underground elite alike.

As it stands with current Covid-era compliant restrictions, an imaginative menu of dinner and cocktails is served under a deceptively open-air ceiling, and a virtual deejay spins away on a screen until live music of varying genres will be allowed to entertain during the supper portion of the evenings.

In the post-Covid era, come 11:00 pm, club music will take over, as will as the bottle service crowd.

Just the kind of vibe you’d expect from a place bold enough to launch during the second wave of what will forever be known as the Corona era. 

The Classic Cat
8830 Sunset Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90069
424-377-4078
Reservation Only
@theclassiccatla

La Glace | An ice cream trifecta of rose, lavender, and pistachio perfection.

Belle Vie: Life is Beautiful on the West Side

One of the west side’s not-so-hidden gems, Belle Vie Food + Wine combines the charming authenticity and warm hospitality of a Parisian brasserie with a hip, eclectic menu that puts an LA spin on traditional French gastronomie.

Having opened more than six restaurants in Paris, Gordon Ramsey-trained chef Cédric Nicolas has designed a menu with more than just the traditional Croque Monsieur and charcuterie plates one would expect from a French bistro—although those staples are alive and well. Think grilled duck steak and eggs with a surprising honey and chipotle sauce, or ratatouille with homemade chorizo. Or my personal favorite, deviled eggs with whipped harissa, scallions, aoili, and chive garnish, served on traditional yet somehow whimsical blue and white china plates. Water served in vintage milk jars.

Owned and operated by bonified Frenchman and sommelier Vincent Samarco, it’s nearly impossible to tell the difference between newcomers and seasoned regulars that walk through the door as everyone is given the same friendly neighborhood treatment.

Warm and magnanimous, Sanmarco greets everyone, periodically popping out from behind the bar and clearing off a marble high top or a red leather half-moon banquette booth seat, finding a place for anyone who crosses the threshold—even on a particularly crowded Thursday night when a piano player sets up shop, clanging out old classics to the patrons’ delight.

Take a tour of your new neighborhood spot, below.

Belle Vie Food + Wine
11916 Wilshire Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90025

Bastille Day | La Fête Nationale 2020

Moi, enjoying a Bastille Day apéro at Héritage Fine Wines of Beverly Hills.

Bastille Day | La Fête Nationale 2020

There’s nothing quite like being in France to celebrate Bastille Day—the French equivalent of our American Independence Day. Just as the 4th of July signaled the culmination of the American Revolution in 1776 that led to the United States disassociating from Great Britain, Bastille Day marks the anniversary of the storming of the Bastille, the climax of the French Revolution in 1789, which was equally as bloody and gruesome (let’s not forget the gleeful beheading of Marie Antoinette, for one) but also paved the way for a future of fireworks, flag waving, and national pride.

A few hundred years later, le 14 Juillet is still celebrated just a few weeks after the 4th of July, and if you haven’t gotten all of that patriotism out of your system, there many ways to show affection for the beautiful country that we all know and love, and many of us consider a home-away-from-home (Who could forget the famous Josephine Baker quote: America is my country, but Paris is my hometown?). One of the best ways to celebrate this year, during the head- scratcher of a summer that is life in 2020, is to support local French restaurants and businesses.

One of my personal favorite spots is Héritage Fine Wines in Beverly Hills.

Known as much for its summer rooftop soirées (excluding this year, sad face) and occasional drop-in performances by John Legend, as for its impressive body of French wines, you’d be hard-pressed to find a better apéro spot in the city. With a to-die-for selection of gourmet meats and cheeses, creating an a la carte charcuterie board has never been easier, and a summer Happy Hour menu that includes $1 oysters can’t be beat. A glass of Taittinger always satisfies my bubbles craving, or sample a flight of fresh-off-the-vineyard whites, reds, and rosés out on the terrace, admiring the stream of passersby from nearby Rodeo Drive.

Helmed by French expatriates and expert winemakers, founder Jordan Andrieu and sommelier Charles Denois—born and bred on vineyards in Burgundy and Champagne, France, respectively—with their keen noses for a proper bouquet, have cultivated a curated library of French wines, all available by the bottle, and for purchase at the on-site wine shop.

Once sufficiently wined and dined, it’s also worth noting that under normal non-pandemic circumstances, one could head down the street to the Sofitel Beverly Hills for its annual Bastille Day celebration festivities, complete with can-can dancers, a French flag photo booth, and gift bags and raffle prizes sponsored by local French institutions like L’Alliance Française and XL Airways.

But, c’est la vie, as they say. There’s always next year.

Heritage Fine Wines
467 N. Canon Drive
Beverly Hills, CA
@heritagefinewines

No Happy Hour is complete without a glass of Taittinger and $1 oysters.

Le Re-brand | Ladurée Goes Green

The pièce de résistance of Ladurée is its traditional St. Honoré dessert (front) and signature pastel china.

Did you know that our beloved Ladurée has rebranded as a fully Vegan restaurant, with an entirely reimagined, plant-based menu? In participation with Vegan chef Matthew Kenney, both full-menu Los Angeles locations, including Beverly Hills and The Grove, have made the shift. (Note: A third kiosk location at The Americana at Brand in Glendale offers to-go beverages and pastries only)

While I absolutely respect and understand the need for dietary restrictions and fully support the informed personal decisions that come with choosing a Vegan lifestyle, as a fierce defender of the preservation of French culture, including its historical integrity and the deep-seated roots of French cuisine, I’m sorry to say that I’m not excited about eating a Croque Monsieur made with tofu instead of the traditional jambon and gruyère cheese.

Offering Vegan-friendly options or substitutions (some of which are already available in French locations, and will be rolled out to the nearly 80 worldwide destinations) is a wonderful way to accommodate alternative dietary choices, but a fully meat-less menu overhaul here in the States feels extreme.

The 158 year old pâtisserie, known especially for its gold-standard macarons and dreamy desserts served upon the brand’s signature pastel green, pink, and blue rimmed dishware, is a world renowned French institution and an unofficial cultural landmark.

What do you think of these changes?

Ladurée Beverly Hills
311 N. Beverly Drive
Beverly Hills

Ladurée The Grove
189 The Grove Drive
Los Angeles

Q&A | Spotlight on: The Summer of Ludo & Gilles Pop Up

The Summer of Ludo & Gilles pop up dining experience comes to Beverly Hills.
Photo courtesy of the Montage Beverly Hills

The pop-up dining experience trend is really taking off in Los Angeles, and one of the absolute best of the year, hands down, is The Summer of Ludo and Gilles—although I may be biased, given my unabashed affection for the seaside cuisine of the French Riviera.

Nestled inside the charmingly European and picturesque courtyard of the Montage Beverly Hills, this epic culinary collaboration is the brainchild of renowned French restaurateurs Ludo Lefebvre—the producer of many an LA French eatery (including the beloved Trois Mecs in Hollywood) and known to many as America’s French Chef—and Gilles Epié, Culinary Director of the Montage Beverly Hills and known to many as the Original Rock Star Chef. Both have carved illustrious careers, leaving a combined trail of Michelin stars and television stints in their wake since their earlier days together at L’Orangerie in Paris.

In my exclusive Q&A with these two French visionaries below, find out what to expect from the most buzzed-about dining experience of the summer—and be sure to make a reservation before the three-month run ends in late September.

---

TCA: What is your idea of the ideal French dining experience, and how is it incorporated into the Ludo & Gilles pop-up?

Chef Gilles: The French appreciate the art of dining, they have a passion for food and they take their time to fully enjoy it. Summer of Ludo & Gilles is like two friends together on vacation, cooking colorful food from the south of France using the freshest California produce. 

Chef Ludo: For me, when I think of the ideal French dining experience, it's with white tablecloths and beautiful china. When I think of my ideal dining experience in the South of France, it’s outside in the garden or near the beach. Summer of Ludo & Gilles incorporates the best of both worlds, with a beautiful setting provided by Montage Beverly Hills but with the simple, delicious food of the South of France.

TCA: Which elements of the South of France specifically served as inspiration for the menu?

Chef Gilles: The cuisine of the South of France features traditional dishes that are influenced by other countries around the Mediterranean Sea. The open-air farmers markets in Los Angeles provide delicious fruits, vegetables, olives, herbs and spices which complement the fish and meat dishes. We simply can’t go wrong with these amazing flavors!

Chef Ludo: The three most important elements of cuisine from the South of France are: fresh, local, farmer's market vegetables, fresh fish, and Extra Virgin Olive Oil. We wanted to incorporate all of the wonderful produce and ingredients we can find here in Southern California to utilize them in traditional dishes from the South of France.

TCA: What do you love most about French cuisine and how does it differ from American dining?

Chef Gilles: Dining in France is an experience and there is a wealth of traditional recipes that have been perfected over time. Whether you're at a French cafe, family-owned bistro or elegant restaurant, everyone has an opinion on food. In the U.S., diners enjoy recipes that are innovative and healthy. Americans definitely spend less time at the dining table, I think they should try to enjoy life a little bit more and I hope that our food entices them to do exactly that!

Chef Ludo: French cuisine has a long and rich history rooted in tradition. Every dish has a reason for why and when it is prepared, and there are so many different elements which go into the story behind it. I feel that true American cuisine is influenced by the mix of cultures that live here and it is much more difficult to define because of that.

TCA: In what way does this inspired menu put a unique spin on traditional French fare?

Chef Gilles: This is California and people are watching their figures. I don't cook with butter or heavy sauces. Clients can indulge their culinary passion while eating flavorful and healthy dishes using impeccable ingredients.

Chef Ludo: This menu is actually very traditional and we did not play with the dishes too much. Gilles and I really wanted to share the dishes that we remember from our childhood.

TCA: Which menu item has been most popular so far/ are you most excited to share?

Chef Gilles: The item that is the most popular is definitely the eggs caviar (a dish Ludo and I have been doing since our days at L’Orangerie). But personally the dish that I’m the most excited to share with our clientele is the pissaladière because it’s an authentic dish from Nice and probably something many people have never tried! And of course the Branzino, both Ludo and I created this recipe together, it basically represents everything we love!

Chef Ludo: The hors d’oeuvres cart which comes with 12 different salads and is accompanied by dipping breads has been really popular. Guests also really seem to be enjoying the fish soup as well! My favorite thing on the menu are the grilled prawns with garlic butter and fresh herbs. It's very simple, but so delicious! 

TCA: What do you think is missing from the LA restaurant scene that can be found at Ludo & Gilles?

Chef Gilles: It's the only restaurant in LA with two Michelin-starred chefs creating a truly French fine dining experience together, in a relaxed and beautiful space...We have both cooked for Presidents and movie stars, but we're thrilled to bring our cuisine to food lovers from every walk of life.

Chef Ludo: Our goal with Summer of Ludo & Gilles was to create a space for our guests to experience the South of France without ever leaving LA. I have so many fond memories of my own summers when I was a kid with my family in the South of France and wanted to share that with our guests.

TCA: What makes The Montage the perfect home for this dining experience?

Chef Gilles: Montage Beverly Hills is a world-class hotel with an international discerning clientele. They feel at home here dining on Mediterranean cuisine in a sophisticated atmosphere.

Chef Ludo: Montage Beverly Hills had all the resources I needed, a beautiful kitchen and a great team, to pop-up in their restaurant, plus their location and outdoor courtyard feels like you're in a little village in the South of France - the perfect escape from the hectic life of LA. It was the ideal setting to help transport the guests through both food and the space into the South of France.  

TCA: What do you most hope to accomplish during the run of this pop up?

Chef Gilles: We’d like to put the Summer of Ludo & Gilles on the culinary map! 

Chef Ludo: Most importantly, I want to share my love of this tradition of food with our guests so they can experience something different and new! I hope to give some inspiration to the guests about South of France cuisine so that they travel and create memories of their own.

The Summer of Ludo & Gilles
241 N. Canon Drive
Beverly Hills
310-860-7800

Renowned French chefs Ludo Lefebvre (Left), and Chef Gilles Epié (Right)

Le Grand Gateau | Sylvia Weinstock x Ladurée Wedding Cakes

Le gateau de mariage, as imagined by Sylvia Weinstock for Ladurée.

Photo source: Ladurée.

Affectionately known as The Queen of Cake, Sylvia Weinstock, the grande dame of all things wedding cake chic, has partnered with Ladurée—bringing her signature brand of timeless elegance and creative flair to the famed French franchise in the form of custom specialty cakes pour le mariage.

Having started her baking empire at the ripe young age of 50, the now 89-year-old Brooklyn-based cake maven knows a thing or two about wedding style. Averse to the modern large-scale cake hack known as fondant, Weinstock is a firm believer in crafting her masterpieces with classic butter cream—as is the French way—making her union with the Parisian patisserie perhaps the perfect marriage of all.

“While I closed my New York Studio last year, I continue to be inundated with requests for cakes and recommendations of other bakers,” Weinstock is quoted on the Ladurée site. “In truth, I could not vouch for the quality of any other business than my own – until I met Elisabeth Holder. Elisabeth and Ladurée subscribe to my philosophy of cake: it must not only be artful, but delicious, and made with the best and most natural ingredients in the marketplace. It is an honor to be invited to the Ladurée family by Elisabeth, and I am grateful to now have a place I can proudly recommend to my dear clients and friends for their celebrations.”

Get to know Sylvia Weinstock better here.

Sylvia Weinstock toasting Ladurée Executive Pastry Chef Jimmy Leclerc.

Photo source: Ladurée.